Zanzibar · After the safari

Zanzibar

The island most people add to the end of a Tanzania safari — and a straight account of what is on it, so you can decide what your last week looks like.

How it fits

We plan Zanzibar as the second half of a safari rather than a holiday of its own. Six days in the parks and then a week on the coast is the most common shape a Tanzania trip takes, and the order matters: early starts and long drives are easier before a week of doing nothing than after one.

Where to go

The coasts, and what sits on them

Stone Town

The old quarter on the west coast and a UNESCO site: carved doors, the Old Fort, Darajani market and the Forodhani food stalls at dusk. Most people give it a night at one end of the trip.

Nungwi

The northern tip. Deep water that swims at any state of the tide, the busiest nightlife on the island, and sunsets over open sea.

Kendwa

A few kilometres south of Nungwi and quieter, with the same tide-independent swimming and the island’s best-known full-moon parties.

Matemwe

North-east, facing Mnemba Atoll. Low-key and strung along the shore — the natural base if diving and snorkelling are the point.

Zanzibar beach after a Tanzania safari

Kiwengwa & Pongwe

East coast: large resorts at Kiwengwa, small sheltered coves at Pongwe. Reef offshore and a big tidal range.

Paje & Jambiani

South-east. Wide white sand, shallow turquoise water, seaweed farms worked at low tide, and the centre of the island’s kitesurfing.

Michamvi

The peninsula between the east coast and Chwaka Bay. Quiet, with west-facing sunsets that are unusual on this side of the island.

Kizimkazi

The far south, a fishing village known for its dolphin trips and for the oldest mosque in East Africa. The boats often crowd the animals, and the practice is increasingly questioned.

Pemba

The other island, an hour north by air. Far less developed, steep and green, with some of the best diving in the archipelago.

What to do

The things worth spending a day on

A spice farm

Kizimbani and Kidichi, north-east of Stone Town: cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla, and the trade that shaped the island.

Stone Town on foot

The Anglican cathedral built on the site of the former slave market, the Old Dispensary, and the palace ruins at Mtoni and Maruhubi.

Jozani Forest

The last stronghold of the Zanzibar red colobus, found nowhere else on earth, with a mangrove boardwalk. Half a day from most of the east coast.

Mnemba Atoll

The best-known snorkelling and diving on the island, off Matemwe. The atoll itself is private; the reef around it is not.

A dhow at sunset

A traditional sailing boat out of Stone Town, Nungwi or Kendwa. The one thing almost nobody regrets doing.

A sandbank

Nakupenda and others surface at low tide and vanish at high. Usually combined with snorkelling and lunch on the sand.

Kitesurfing at Paje

Reliable cross-shore wind from December to February and June to September, with schools for people who have never tried it.

Prison Island

Changuu, twenty minutes off Stone Town, with a colony of Aldabra giant tortoises and a reef to snorkel.

Safari Blue

A full day by boat from Fumba in the south-west: sandbanks, snorkelling, a seafood lunch and a sail home.

When to go

The island’s year, and how it meets the safari calendar

June to October

Dry, cooler and busiest. It lines up with peak safari season, which is why most bush-and-beach trips land here.

December to February

Hot, clear and calm, with the best underwater visibility of the year. The short rains fall in November.

March to May

The long rains. Many smaller places close, prices drop, and the sea stays warm — but the weather is genuinely unreliable.

Before you go

Flights from Arusha take about ninety minutes and land twenty minutes from Stone Town. Tides on the east coast are dramatic — at low water the sea can retreat several hundred metres — while the north swims at any hour, which is worth knowing before you choose a coast. Zanzibar is predominantly Muslim: covered shoulders and knees away from the beach are expected, and during Ramadan many restaurants outside the hotels keep short hours.

Questions?

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